Long before machines could set a stone, human hands perfected an art so precise it has never needed improving.
Of all the earring styles that have emerged from the Indian subcontinent over the last thousand years, none carries the gravity — or the beauty — of Kundan. These are earrings that take months to make, that require three separate master craftsmen, and that produce a warmth of color no modern setting technique has been able to replicate. They are worn at the most significant moments of a woman's life, and passed down through generations as heirlooms.
At Savrani, we believe every client deserves to understand the object they are considering. This is your complete guide to Kundan earrings — what they are, how they are made, what separates excellence from imitation, and how to wear them in a way that honors their heritage.
What Exactly Is Kundan?
Kundan is India's oldest and most refined gemstone-setting technique. The word itself means "pure gold" in Hindi — and that purity is the foundation of everything. In Kundan work, gemstones are embedded directly into a base of 24-karat gold foil rather than held by prongs or claws. The molten gold is pressed around each stone with a fine tool, conforming to its exact shape and locking it in place permanently. The result is a seamless marriage of stone and metal that appears to have grown together.
Origin: Rajput & Mughal courts of 16th-century Rajasthan and Delhi · The word derives from Sanskrit "kunda" — meaning a vessel of pure, refined gold
The crucial distinction: Kundan is a setting technique, not a stone. Kundan earrings can feature Polki diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, turquoise, or glass — the stone varies; the method does not. This is why a Kundan earring can cost ₹5,000 or ₹5,00,000. The technique is the same. What changes is the material set within it.
The characteristic look of Kundan — that flush, borderless appearance where stone and gold seem to flow into one another — is impossible to achieve with any other technique. There are no prongs, no bezels, no visible settings. Only gold and stone, united.
Anatomy of a
Kundan Earring
A genuine Kundan earring is not a single object — it is the layered result of three distinct crafts, each performed by a different specialist. Understanding the layers changes how you evaluate a piece.
What's Inside The Four Layers of a Kundan Earring
The Ghaat — Gold Frame
The structural skeleton, hammered from 22–24k gold sheet by the Sunar (goldsmith). This frame defines the shape of the earring and carries all subsequent layers. Intricate filigree or repoussé work may already be present at this stage.
The Paadh — Lac Core
The frame is filled with a mixture of lac (natural resin) and brick dust powder. This core gives the earring its weight, rigidity, and — critically — a surface for the Kundan foil to grip against when stones are set. Without Paadh, Kundan setting is impossible.
The Kundan Setting — Front Face
24k gold foil is layered over the lac base. Gemstones are pressed into this soft gold using a fine steel tool called a "thapi." The foil folds up around each stone's girdle, locking it in place. This step can take days per earring for an elaborate design.
The Meenakari — Reverse Enamel
The back of the earring is handed to the Meenakar (enamelist), who applies vitreous enamel by hand in intricate floral or geometric patterns. This unseen surface is considered as important as the front — it is the signature of true craftsmanship.
How Kundan Earrings
Are Actually Made
A pair of elaborate Kundan earrings passes through at least three workshops and can take six to twelve weeks to complete. Here is the full journey.
Design & Tracing
The design is drawn on paper, then transferred to thin gold sheet using a tracing tool. Intricate designs — heavy jhumkas, layered chandbaalis — require separate paper templates for each section of the earring.
Goldsmithing the Frame
The Sunar cuts, shapes, and solders the gold frame. Decorative wire work — twisted gold threads called "taar" — may be added at this stage. For jhumka earrings, the dome and hanging components are crafted separately and joined.
Filling with Lac
The completed gold frame is warmed gently, and lac mixture is poured and pressed into every cavity. Once set and cooled, the lac becomes rock-hard — providing a permanent backing for the Kundan work to follow.
Laying the Kundan Foil
Sheets of 24k gold foil are cut into small pieces and pressed flat against the lac surface. This gilded base will become the bed in which stones sit. The foil must be absolutely even — any air pocket causes the stone to sit unevenly.
Setting the Stones
Each stone is placed by hand, then the surrounding foil is pressed up and over its edges using the thapi tool. The craftsman works stone by stone — a single elaborate earring can contain fifty or more individual settings. This is the step that distinguishes a master from a novice.
Meenakari on the Reverse
The earring is passed to the Meenakar. Fine powdered enamel is applied to the gold back with a thin brush, then fired in a small kiln at precise temperatures. Different colors require separate firings. The result is the vivid, glassy enamel work that marks an authentic piece.
Final Assembly & Inspection
Drops, chains, or hanging elements are attached. Each stone is inspected and any loose settings are re-pressed. The piece is cleaned and presented — often with a certificate detailing the gold purity and stone types used.
Types of Kundan Earrings
You Should Know
Kundan earrings span a vast range of forms — from small everyday studs to elaborate bridal pieces worn at the most significant ceremonies of a lifetime. Each silhouette has its own history.
Jhumka
The most iconic Indian earring form — a dome-shaped top with a hanging bell-shaped drop. Kundan jhumkas are often set with colored gemstones and finished with pearl or meenakari danglers. Suited to all occasions from festive to bridal.
Chandbali
Named for the Hindi word for moon (chand), these crescent-shaped earrings are among the most elegant Kundan forms. A staple of bridal sets, chandbalis are frequently set with Polki diamonds or emeralds and finished with pearl drops.
Passa / Kaan
Long, asymmetric earrings that drape over and around the ear — often worn on one side only, historically by royalty. Passa-style Kundan pieces represent the most elaborate end of the craft.
Tops / Studs
Smaller Kundan earrings in round, floral, or geometric forms. Set with a single central stone and surrounded by smaller gems or enamel. Appropriate for daily wear when crafted with lighter-gauge gold and lac fill.
Bahubali / Statement
Multi-tiered cascading earrings inspired by those seen in South Indian temple sculpture. These large, layered pieces combine Kundan setting with chains, drops, and extensive gem coverage. Reserved for heavy bridal occasions.
Contemporary Kundan
Modern designers are reinterpreting Kundan in lighter, more geometric forms — minimal frames, architectural silhouettes, and reduced stone coverage. These bridge traditional craft with contemporary wardrobes seamlessly.
Kundan Setting vs
Modern Jewelry Setting
The gap between Kundan and modern setting techniques is not simply aesthetic — it is philosophical. Each approach reflects a fundamentally different relationship between craftsman, metal, and stone.
Hallmarks of
Genuine Quality
Kundan is one of the most widely counterfeited categories in Indian jewelry. Here is what separates a genuine heirloom-quality piece from a convincing reproduction.
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Examine the Reverse for Meenakari
The single most reliable indicator of authentic Kundan craftsmanship is Meenakari enamel work on the back of the piece. A genuine Kundan earring is finished on both sides because a true craftsman considers the reverse as important as the face. A plain, exposed metal back signals mass production or imitation.
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Look for the Foil Glow
Hold the earring near a light source and tilt it gently. Authentic Kundan stones appear to glow from within — that is the 24k gold foil underneath reflecting light back through the gem. Stones set without foil, or set over lesser metal, will appear comparatively flat and cold.
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Feel the Weight of Real Gold
Genuine Kundan in 22k gold has perceptible weight — a heavy jhumka should feel substantial in the hand. Lightweight or tinny-feeling pieces signal low gold content, base metal substitutes, or hollow construction.
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Demand BIS Hallmarking
The gold in any Kundan piece should carry BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards) hallmarking confirming its purity — typically 22k (916) or 24k (999). Any jeweler selling genuine Kundan will provide hallmark documentation without hesitation.
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Ask About the Stones by Name
Ask the jeweler specifically: "Are these Polki diamonds, glass, synthetic stones, or natural gemstones?" A credible jeweler will answer precisely and in writing. Vague responses — "they're real stones" — are a red flag in a category where material variation spans hundreds of thousands of rupees.
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Source from Specialists
Authentic Kundan work is concentrated among specialist workshops in Jaipur, Delhi, and Bikaner. A multi-category fashion jewelry store is unlikely to stock — or accurately represent — genuine pieces. Seek dedicated Jadau and Kundan artisan jewelers with documented provenance.
Styling Kundan Earrings
for Every Occasion
Kundan earrings were born in the Mughal courts, refined in the Rajput palaces, and belong — with equal authority — in a modern woman's wardrobe. Here is how to wear them well.
The Bridal Look
Elaborate chandbalis or bahubali-style Kundan earrings anchor a complete bridal set. Pair with a Kundan necklace, maang tikka, and bangles for the full traditional statement. Against a deep red, emerald green, or royal blue lehenga, the warm gold and colored stones of Kundan are unmatched.
Wedding · BridalFestive Occasions
For Diwali, Navratri, Eid, or Karwa Chauth — a statement pair of Kundan jhumkas worn with a silk saree or Anarkali suit makes an effortlessly regal impression. Let the earrings lead; keep the necklace simple or absent when the earrings are elaborate.
Festival · OccasionFormal Evenings
A restrained pair of Kundan tops or small chandbalis transforms formal ethnic wear without overpowering it. For receptions and dinners where full bridal jewelry would be excessive, a single beautiful pair of earrings is the most sophisticated choice.
Evening · FormalFusion & Contemporary
Modern Kundan earrings — geometric forms, lighter lac fill, minimal stone coverage — pair surprisingly well with contemporary Indian wear and structured Western ensembles. A pair of minimal Kundan studs with a blazer and cigarette trousers is an unexpectedly powerful combination.
Modern · FusionMyths About Kundan
Set Straight
Kundan is surrounded by more confusion than almost any other jewelry tradition. Here are the myths we hear most often — and the truth behind them.
Kundan and Polki are the same thing.
Kundan is the setting technique. Polki is an uncut diamond stone. Many Polki earrings use the Kundan setting method — but Kundan can also be used with rubies, emeralds, glass, or any other stone. One refers to how the earring is made; the other to what's set within it.
If it has colored stones, it's not real Kundan.
Kundan has always been set with colored gemstones — rubies, emeralds, sapphires, turquoise, and coral are as authentic in Kundan work as Polki diamonds. The Mughal pieces that defined this tradition were rich with vivid color. Colored stones are not an indicator of lower quality.
Kundan earrings are only for older women or traditional wear.
Contemporary designers are producing Kundan earrings in minimal, geometric, and thoroughly modern silhouettes that appeal across age groups and pair with a wide range of wardrobes. The tradition is ancient; the form is evolving.
Kundan earrings are fragile and impractical to wear.
Well-made Kundan earrings — with properly cured lac fill and correctly set stones — are remarkably durable. Pieces worn at Mughal court ceremonies have survived five hundred years. The key is knowing what to avoid: water, perfume, and amateur repair.
All Kundan earrings are essentially the same in quality.
Quality in Kundan spans an enormous range — from mass-produced pieces using base metal, lac shortcut methods, and glass stones, to individually handcrafted heirlooms in 22k gold set with natural gemstones and fully Meenakari-finished reverses. The difference in price reflects the difference in everything.
Caring for Your Kundan Earrings
Kundan requires more careful handling than most fine jewelry. The lac core, 24k foil settings, and Meenakari enamel each have specific vulnerabilities. Treat your earrings correctly and they will outlast you.
- Never expose to water — the lac core can soften and distort with sustained moisture
- Apply perfume, hairspray, and cosmetics before putting on earrings, never after
- Wipe gently with a dry, lint-free cloth after each wear
- Store individually in soft fabric pouches — never loose or in contact with other jewelry
- Never use ultrasonic cleaners — vibration loosens Kundan settings immediately
- If a stone shifts or feels loose, stop wearing and bring to a Kundan specialist — home repair will cause irreversible damage
- Have settings inspected annually by the originating jeweler or a certified Kundan craftsman
"A Kundan earring does not compete with the face that wears it. It frames it — the way a gilded border frames a miniature painting. That restraint is its greatest power."
— Savrani Jewelry
