Before diamonds were cut, they were worn raw — and the result was more beautiful than anyone expected.
Walk into any serious Indian jewelry store and you'll hear the word Polki spoken with a particular reverence. It is used to describe pieces that look ancient, that glow with a warmth no modern cut diamond quite replicates, and that carry a price tag that commands respect. But what exactly is Polki — and why has it remained one of the most coveted styles in Indian jewelry for over five centuries?
At Savrani, we want every client to understand what they're buying. This is your complete guide to Polki jewelry — its history, its craft, how to identify quality, and why it might be the most important jewelry investment you ever make.
What Exactly Is Polki?
Polki refers to uncut, unprocessed diamonds set in their natural form — exactly as they emerge from the earth. Unlike modern brilliant-cut diamonds, Polki stones are not faceted to maximize sparkle. Instead they are sliced flat, preserving their raw crystalline structure, and set into 22–24k gold using the ancient Kundan technique.
Origin: Mughal imperial courts of 16th-century India · The word derives from the Sanskrit "phulka" — a thin, flat leaf
The key distinction: Polki is a real diamond. It is not glass, not crystal, not an imitation. It is a genuine diamond that has simply never been sent to a cutting wheel. This is important because Polki is often confused with Kundan (the setting technique) or with Jadau (the broader jewelry style). Polki is specifically the stone itself.
The characteristic glow of Polki — that soft, candlelit shimmer rather than the sharp brilliance of a cut stone — comes entirely from the diamond's natural surface. No two Polki stones look identical. That irregularity is precisely the point.
Polki vs Cut Diamond:
What Changes?
The comparison is not about which is better — it is about what each is trying to do. They are fundamentally different aesthetic philosophies.
How Polki Jewelry
Is Actually Made
Polki jewelry is among the most labor-intensive in the world. A single necklace can take a master artisan months to complete. Here is how it is done.
The Gold Foundation
The base is hammered and shaped from 22–24k gold. Because Polki requires the Kundan setting technique, high-purity gold is essential — lower purities are too hard to manipulate into the settings.
Sorting the Stones
Raw diamond crystals are sorted by size, shape, and translucency. The artisan selects Polki stones that fit the design — a painstaking process since each stone is irregular and must be matched by eye and hand.
The Kundan Setting
This is the heart of the process. Pure 24k gold foil (called "kundan") is pressed around each stone using a fine tool, locking it into the gold base without prongs or claws. The foil also reflects light back through the stone, creating that distinctive glow.
Meenakari on the Reverse
The back of a true Polki piece is almost always finished with Meenakari enamel work — intricate hand-painted florals in turquoise, red, and green. This is a hallmark of authentic craftsmanship. If the back is plain, the piece is likely a reproduction.
Finishing & Polishing
The completed piece is cleaned, any final adjustments made to the settings, and the gold is polished. A master craftsman inspects every stone by hand before the piece leaves the workshop.
Types of Polki
You Should Know
Not all Polki is the same. Within the category, several distinct varieties exist — and knowing them changes how you shop.
Syndicate Polki
The finest and most valuable. These are real, high-clarity uncut diamonds with minimal inclusions. They appear clear to slightly translucent with a pure white glow. Extremely rare and priced accordingly.
Zimbabwe Polki
Sourced from Zimbabwe, these stones have a slightly yellowish or champagne tone. Still genuine uncut diamonds — widely used in bridal Polki sets for their warmth and relative affordability.
Filled Polki
Real diamond crystals that have been filled with a resin or glass to improve their appearance and reduce visible inclusions. More accessible price point, but not as pure as unfilled varieties.
Lab-Grown Polki
A newer category — uncut lab-created diamonds set in the traditional Polki style. Chemically identical to mined diamonds. Offers the aesthetic at a significantly reduced cost.
Vilandi Polki
Washed and cleaned uncut diamonds, often with a slightly grey or cloudy tone. The most accessible tier — sometimes called "grey Polki." Authentic diamonds, but lower clarity grades.
Imitation Polki
Glass, white sapphire, or cubic zirconia set in the Kundan style to mimic Polki. Not diamonds at all. A reputable jeweler will always disclose this — if they don't volunteer it, ask directly.
Hallmarks of
Genuine Quality
Polki is one of the most frequently misrepresented categories in Indian jewelry. Here is exactly what to look for — and what to walk away from.
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Check the Back
Authentic Polki jewelry always has Meenakari enamel work on the reverse side. A plain, unfinished back is a strong indicator that the piece is mass-produced or uses imitation stones. Flip it over before you buy.
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Feel the Weight
Genuine Polki in real 22k gold has significant weight. If a piece feels light or hollow, the gold content is likely low or the stones are glass. Weight is not glamorous but it is honest.
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Ask for Hallmarking
The gold base should carry BIS hallmarking confirming purity. Any jeweler selling genuine Polki will provide this without hesitation. No certificate means no guarantee.
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Know What Type You're Buying
Ask your jeweler directly: "Is this Syndicate, Zimbabwe, Filled, or Vilandi Polki?" A trustworthy jeweler answers clearly. Vague answers like "real Polki" without specification are a red flag.
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Buy from Specialists
Polki is a specialist craft. A generalist jewelry store carrying everything from gold chains to fashion earrings is unlikely to stock — or correctly represent — authentic Polki pieces. Seek out dedicated Jadau and Kundan specialists.
Styling Polki
for Every Occasion
Polki was born in the courts of the Mughal emperors — but it belongs in modern wardrobes too. Here is how to wear it well.
The Bridal Look
A full Polki bridal set — necklace, earrings, maang tikka or mathapatti, and bangles — worn with a deep red or jewel-toned lehenga is one of the most magnificent expressions in Indian bridal fashion. The warm glow of Polki photographs magnificently under candlelight and flash alike.
Wedding · BridalFestive Occasions
For Diwali, Navratri, or Eid — a Polki choker or statement necklace with a Banarasi or Kanjivaram silk saree is effortlessly regal. The key is letting the Polki lead: keep other jewelry minimal when the necklace is elaborate.
Festival · OccasionFormal Evenings
A single Polki pendant or a pair of Polki drops transforms even a simple silk blouse. For formal dinners and receptions, restraint in quantity and richness in quality is the Polki philosophy.
Evening · FormalFusion & Contemporary
Modern Polki — lighter, more geometric, set in minimal gold frames — pairs beautifully with contemporary Indian wear and even structured western outfits. A Polki ear cuff or thin bracelet worn casually is a powerful style statement.
Modern · FusionMyths About Polki
Set Straight
Polki is surrounded by more misinformation than almost any other jewelry category. Here are the most common myths — and the truth behind them.
Polki is just glass or imitation diamonds — it's not real.
Authentic Polki uses genuine uncut diamonds. The confusion arises because cheap imitations using glass are sold under the same name. Always verify with your jeweler and ask for documentation.
Polki diamonds are low quality because they haven't been cut.
The absence of cutting is a deliberate artistic choice, not a compromise. Polki stones are valued for their natural form — cutting them would destroy the very quality that makes Polki jewelry unique.
Polki and Kundan are the same thing.
Kundan is the setting technique. Polki is the stone. Most Polki jewelry uses the Kundan setting, but Kundan jewelry can also use colored gemstones, glass, or other materials. One describes the stone; the other describes the craft.
Polki jewelry can only be worn at weddings.
While grand bridal sets are a Polki hallmark, contemporary Polki designers create pieces suited to festive evenings, formal occasions, and even daily wear. The range of Polki today is broader than ever.
Caring for Your Polki Jewelry
Polki requires more careful handling than most fine jewelry. The Kundan setting, the high-purity gold, and the Meenakari enamel all need specific attention. Treat it right and it will be worn by your grandchildren.
- Never use ultrasonic cleaners — the vibration loosens Kundan settings and damages enamel
- Wipe gently with a dry, lint-free cloth after each wear
- Store flat in individual soft pouches — never stacked or tangled
- Keep away from water, perfume, and hairspray entirely
- Have a specialist jeweler inspect and re-tighten settings annually
- If a stone loosens, stop wearing immediately — do not attempt re-setting at home
"Polki is what happens when you trust a diamond to be itself — uncut, unpolished, entirely honest. There is no jewelry more true."
— Savrani Jewelry
