22-karat gold is not a marketing term. It is a specification — one that shapes everything about how a piece is made, how it wears, and how it lasts. Here is what you need to understand before you buy.
Walk into any Indian jewelry market and you will find gold at every price point, in every shade, described in every superlative. The language is designed to overwhelm. But Indian fine jewelry has always had a language of its own — one built on centuries of craft, a rigorous hallmarking system, and standards that exist precisely to protect the buyer. The more clearly you understand that language, the better the jewelry you will bring home.
These are the five things that matter most.
Five Things Every Buyer
Must Know
22kt Is a Standard, Not a Selling Point — Know What It Actually Means
22-karat gold is 91.6% pure gold, alloyed with copper or silver for durability. It is the traditional standard for Indian fine jewelry — not because it is the purest available, but because it offers the optimal balance of warmth, workability, and wearability that Indian craftsmanship demands. A piece described as "22kt" that feels white or light is not 22kt. The deep, saturated warmth of the color is itself the confirmation of purity. Learn to read it.
BIS Hallmarking Is Non-Negotiable — Here Is How to Read It
The Bureau of Indian Standards hallmark is the only legally recognized purity certification in India. Since September 2021, it is mandatory for gold jewelry sold in India. A hallmarked piece will carry four marks: the BIS logo, the purity in fineness (916 for 22kt), the Hallmarking Centre's identification mark, and the jeweler's identification. If any of these are absent — or if the seller discourages you from looking for them — walk away.
The Price Is Not Just the Gold Weight — Understand What You Are Actually Paying For
Indian fine jewelry is priced in two components: the cost of the gold itself (weight × current spot rate) and the making charge, which covers craftsmanship. Making charges on Kundan, Meenakari, and Jadau pieces can legitimately be as high as 25–35% of the gold value — because these techniques require weeks of skilled hand-work. Making charges on a plain machine-finished bangle should be far lower. Always ask for both figures separately. A jeweler who cannot separate them is hiding something.
Every Stone Set in 22kt Gold Deserves Its Own Honest Conversation
The gold in a piece is verifiable. The stones are not — unless you ask directly. In traditional Indian jewelry, the same setting style is used for natural uncut diamonds (Polki), glass, resin, and synthetic stones. Ask explicitly: are these natural, synthetic, or imitation? Ask for a certificate on any significant stone. At Savrani, every gemstone in our pieces is disclosed by type, origin, and treatment status, because the stone is part of what you are paying for.
The Technique That Made the Piece Determines How It Will Age
Two pieces of identical weight, karat, and stone quality can differ enormously in value — because one was made by a specialist in a traditional technique and one was not. Kundan requires a Kundansaaz trained over years; Meenakari requires a Menakar. These crafts cannot be faked at high quality — the evenness of the foil, the depth of the enamel, the precision of the stone seat will tell you everything. Buy from jewelers who can name the craftsmen and describe the technique. What is made correctly will last generations. What is not will not.
The Gold Purity Scale,
Explained Simply
Not all gold sold as "gold" contains the same amount of it. The karat system expresses purity as a fraction of 24 parts. Here is how the most common standards compare — and why 22kt has been the Indian jewelry standard for centuries.
Four Marks That
Protect You
Since mandatory hallmarking was introduced in India, every piece of gold jewelry sold by a registered jeweler must carry four specific marks. Together, they form a complete chain of accountability — from the smelter to the certifier to the seller. Here is what each one means.
BIS Logo
The Bureau of Indian Standards triangle mark confirms the piece entered the official certification system. Without it, no other mark is meaningful.
Purity in Fineness
Expressed as parts per thousand: 916 = 22kt, 750 = 18kt, 585 = 14kt. This is the only legally binding purity statement on the piece.
Hallmarking Centre ID
The unique code of the Assaying and Hallmarking Centre that tested and certified the piece. Traceable through the BIS registry.
Since 2021, BIS hallmarking also includes a six-character alphanumeric HUID (Hallmark Unique ID) — a code that can be verified on the BIS Care app. This allows any buyer to instantly confirm that the piece is registered, certified, and has not been tampered with. Ask to see it used before you buy.
How to Read a
Jewelry Price
The total price of a 22kt piece is the sum of three distinct costs. Understanding each one allows you to compare across jewelers honestly — and to recognize when making charges are justified by the craft or inflated by the brand.
| Component | What It Covers | Typical Range |
|---|---|---|
| Gold Weight Cost | The current market price of the gold content, based on certified weight (in grams) × the day's 22kt spot rate. This is fixed — it cannot vary between honest jewelers on the same day. | Non-negotiable; market-determined |
| Making Charges | The cost of craftsmanship. Varies enormously by technique: machine-finished pieces carry 8–12%; handcrafted Kundan or Jadau pieces can legitimately reach 25–35% of gold value. | 8% – 35% of gold value |
| Stone Value | The assessed value of gemstones set in the piece. Should be quoted separately, ideally with a certificate. This is where the most significant dishonesty occurs in the market. | Varies; insist on itemization |
| GST | 3% on gold value + making charges; 0.25% on rough diamonds. Mandatory, transparent, and the same everywhere. | 3% + 0.25% on diamonds |
The Signs of Honest
Craftsmanship
Two pieces of identical weight and karat can tell entirely different stories. One was made by hands that have spent years learning a specific technique. The other was assembled to look like it. The differences are visible — once you know what to look for.
Signs of Compromised Craft
Signs of Genuine Mastery
What You Have Been
Told That Isn't True
The Indian jewelry market, like any luxury market, generates its share of mythology. Here are the beliefs that cost buyers the most — corrected plainly.
"Heavier jewelry is always better quality jewelry."
Weight is a measure of gold content, not craftsmanship. Some of the most technically accomplished Indian jewelry — particularly Kundan and Jadau — achieves its visual impact through the stone placement and surface treatment, not mass. A lighter piece by a master craftsman is worth more than a heavier piece by a machine.
"24kt gold is the best choice because it's the purest."
24-karat gold is too soft for most wearable jewelry. It bends under ordinary use, cannot hold gemstone settings securely, and scratches against itself. 22kt exists precisely to solve this — it retains 91.6% purity while adding just enough hardness for jewelry that can actually be worn. Purity and wearability are different things.
"Polki and diamond are interchangeable terms for uncut stones."
Polki refers specifically to uncut, unpolished natural diamonds set in the traditional Indian manner — foil-backed in Kundan. "Diamond" in a casual market context can mean natural, synthetic, or simulant. They are not interchangeable. Always ask: is this natural Polki, lab-grown, or a simulant? The answer should come without hesitation from any honest seller.
"You cannot negotiate on fine Indian jewelry — the price is the price."
The gold weight cost is non-negotiable — it reflects market price. But making charges and stone valuations are not fixed. Understanding the breakdown gives you the ability to have an honest conversation about what you are paying for, identify where charges may be inflated, and compare across jewelers on equal terms. Knowledge is the negotiation.
Shop 22kt Gold at Savrani
Every piece in our collection is BIS hallmarked, made in 22kt gold by specialist craftsmen, and priced transparently — gold weight, making charges, and stone values disclosed separately. Browse necklaces, earrings, nose rings, and bridal sets.
"Good gold does not need to advertise itself. It announces itself — in the weight of it, the warmth of it, the way it does not change. Buy less. Buy correctly. Buy once."
— Savrani Jewelry
